That's\r\nhow you will become an expert in Growing roses <\/p>\n\n
Written\r\nby Ronen Kozushner, Natural Green Seeds.<\/p>\n\n
Already\r\nin the kindergarten we get to know the roses and no wonder, it is one of the\r\nmost common plants in both public and private gardening. Flowering roses in a\r\nwide variety of colors, a selection of scents from lightening and intoxicating\r\nand abundant flowering. The roses combine well with the style of Mediterranean\r\nlandscaping. Their use ranges from covering vegetation to color beds like free\r\nshrubs, stylized plants and climbers. Landscape architects, gardeners and\r\namateurs plant them in gardens and expect good results. This article will help\r\nyou succeed in growing roses if you have purchased them from the unqualified\r\npotted or rootless.<\/p>\n\n
Selection\r\nof root-roasted rose seedlings<\/p>\n\n
In\r\nchoosing root-roasted rose seedlings, note that the roots will be healthy and\r\nbranched, that the trunk will be free from injuries and sun plagues and be\r\nstraight. Very long or broken roots should be pruned before planting.<\/p>\n\n
Roots\r\nare reaching the nurseries for the winter. They come from "naked"\r\nKurds that can be found in nurseries in sawdust boxes or covered with soil.\r\nThese must be planted immediately,<\/p>\n\n
Location<\/p>\n\n
\u00a0Roses need direct sunlight at least 6 hours a day. A rose that does not\r\nreceive enough light will look poor, and will not blossom. It should be watered\r\nat least once every 2-3 days, saturation! It is better to watered in the early\r\nmorning, so as not to create moisture in the plant area.<\/p>\n\n
planting<\/p>\n\n
The\r\npit must be prepared in advance. The diameter of the hole must be larger than\r\nthe root diameter when it is sliced. Depth of the pit – depending on the length\r\nof the trunk. It is important that after covering the root, the soil will not\r\nreach the swelling of the assembly. Another possibility is to dig a less wide\r\nhole, stack a mound of earth in the center, and lay the sapling so that the\r\nroots are arranged around the mound. So they do not get in trouble and there's\r\nenough space for everyone.<\/p>\n\n
The\r\nmounting apple should be 2 – 5 cm above the ground.<\/p>\n\n
During\r\nplanting, the pit must be dredged to create optimal air-to-air ratio. To avoid\r\ndirect contact of the root with the garbage, it is possible to mix the soil\r\nwith compost, in a relationship of 1\/3 compost: 2\/3 soil.<\/p>\n\n
Cover\r\nand irrigate the saturation – it is important that the soil sit firmly on the\r\nroot and that there are no air pockets left. Roses that are sold in December in\r\nwriters and nurseries are roses that sit in a bag with a picture of the flower,\r\nusually a white bag. – So if I hit the type of bag then download in a bag not\r\nfound in the ground. The roots are found in special sawdust that is intended to\r\nmaintain minimal moisture in the roots. If the roots dry completely, then the\r\nrose will die.<\/p>\n\n
Fertilizer\r\nand manure<\/p>\n\n
In\r\nthe said winter with potting put in a well manure with the help of compost in\r\nrelation to 1\/3 compost 2\/3 soil and mix well to a uniform mixture.<\/p>\n\n
In\r\nthe summer, from May to the end of June, it can be fertilized 20 to 20 times in\r\n3 weeks. If you see that the soil does not absorb water properly (standing\r\nwater after irrigation), you can add a handful of compost and the soil to the\r\ndesired result.<\/p>\n\n
Watering<\/p>\n\n
We\r\nwill separate the bag from rootless roses, roses planted from the ground and\r\nroses planted in planting containers. But in all cases we recommend to irrigate\r\nthe drip except for the time of planting itself given and even desirable to use\r\nthe tube.<\/p>\n\n
Rootless\r\nroses are sensitive to dehydration in the root area and therefore immediately\r\nwith the planting should be watered to saturation and maintain daily watering\r\nfor at least ten days to two to three weeks. About 5-7 liters each day,\r\ndepending on the type of soil. Then, when you see the development of the plant,\r\nyou can consider irrigation spacing but maintain a weekly amount of at least 30\r\nliters a week. Do not rely on that winter and rainy because there are usually\r\nlong interruptions between rain systems.<\/p>\n\n
In\r\nthis case, it is necessary to water less than ten days on a daily basis for up\r\nto two weeks, when you see the leaves leaving the water.<\/p>\n\n
And\r\nnew trades can be made. A weekly quantity of 40-30 liters per bucket of 7\r\nliters and 100-70 liters per 25 liter tank, depending on the type of soil. So\r\nbe sure to follow the development of the plant.<\/p>\n\n
Roses\r\nplanted in containers are planted in a relatively light bed. Many gardeners\r\nfail to grow roses in containers for several reasons. The first is the lack of\r\nwater, light soil should be watered frequently to maintain soil moisture. A\r\nsecond reason is poor drainage that creates an ideal air-to-water ratio in the\r\ntank. A third reason is to choose a container that is too small for the\r\ndevelopment of a plant whose growth rate is rapid and will require a larger\r\nsubstrate in a larger pot. The last reason is saline soil because of excess\r\nfertilizer, usually from the fertilizer pump. Plants in containers should be\r\nremoved from the tank once every two years, rinse slightly the root mass and\r\nreplace the soil. If we return to the irrigation, make sure that the irrigation\r\nis frequent (even daily in the summer) and the soil is also damp in the depth\r\nof the pot. The test will be done manually.<\/p>\n\n
Pruning\r\nroses are present<\/p>\n\n
No\r\nuniform pruning formula has yet been found. There are different opinions about\r\nwhat is the best pruning.<\/p>\n\n
Pruning\r\ntime The end of winter \/ early spring when the eyes begin to swell but still\r\nhave no leaves.<\/p>\n\n
Usually\r\nthe deadline is the end of February, particularly cold places and the end of\r\nMarch. In warm areas can be pruned in late December early January.<\/p>\n\n
Pruning\r\nstimulates the rose to develop new growth. Pruning prematurely can cause\r\nproblems: the new growth is sensitive to cold and wind and may dry out, and\r\nmost of the energy will be wasted. Secondary growth will start in lower places\r\n(dry eye will not recover) in addition to pruning wounds can freeze in the\r\ncold. If the cut was trimmed too early and the cold made names it must be\r\npruned again as if it had not been trimmed at all. Do not leave damaged\r\nbranches or burned eyes from the wind. Hord is not dead due to early pruning\r\nbut loses his power and of course the abundance of flowering. You should also\r\nknow that you do not trim where the thorns are already gray or brown if you\r\nwant the chopped branch to come out of foliage and new blossom. Pruning will\r\nonly be done in places where thorns are still young.<\/p>\n\n
There\r\nis a certain difference in pruning the different varieties:<\/p>\n\n
ROSA\r\nTEA HYBRID SPP.:<\/p>\n\n
Remove\r\ndead and thin branches to the point where they leave the arm and leave no\r\nstrands<\/p>\n\n
Sick\r\narms (usually darker ones with darker surfaces) should be trimmed to a healthy\r\npart, and a healthy part is evident by its bright green growth<\/p>\n\n
"Open" the center of the download by cutting all the branches that\r\ncross it. Do not leave the buckles. The assembly apple should be left open and\r\nventilated.<\/p>\n\n
In\r\nthe first year, deep pruning should be performed, ie, remove 2\/3 of the length\r\nof the branch, leaving only the lower third (3 lower eyes of the branch). From\r\nthe second year on, the pruning is less deep, and only the top third of each\r\nbranch (about 3 upper eyes) should be removed.<\/p>\n\n
Leave\r\n4 or 5 strong arms outwards, and prune over eyes that also face outward.<\/p>\n\n
The\r\npruning will be done by sharp shears, above the eye that turns outward (about\r\n5-7 mm above the eye) in order to cause the Lord to continue the growth of the\r\nbranches outward. Aim for a cup-shaped dialogue.<\/p>\n\n
ROSA\r\nFLORIBUNDA .do not have to be so careful about pruning. Remove diseased and\r\ndegenerated branches, and cut uniformly to the desired height. The growth in floribondas\r\nis strong enough to overcome even a much less meticulous pruning.<\/p>\n\n
Roses\r\nare climbing<\/p>\n\n
Not\r\nto cut new growth last year that is thicker than a pencil. It is important to\r\nknow that climbing roses are not desirable to prune until their third year, in\r\norder to give them the possibility to establish themselves and accept their\r\ncharacteristic shape.<\/p>\n\n
During\r\nthis period it is worth cutting only withered flowers and new branches that\r\ninterfere with the desired shape. Over time, the climber lowered the index of\r\nlong branches from which side branches bearing flowers emerged. Some climbing\r\nroses take out new branches from the root and part from above.<\/p>\n\n
The\r\ngoal of pruning the climber is to grow new branches that will gradually replace\r\nthe old ones. At the end of the flowering prune the branches that bloomed but\r\nleave up to 2-3 eyes from the beginning of the branch (be careful not to prune\r\nthe branch bearing the branches that bloomed).<\/p>\n\n
Debel\r\nDe Lite<\/p>\n\n
Most\r\nof the flowering in the climbers is formed on branches of 2 to 3 years old and\r\non branches that grow parallel to the soil rather than upwards. This must be\r\ntaken into account when connecting the branches of the discourse. Correct\r\nbinding is very important. The branches are supposed to be tied horizontally on\r\nboth sides of the heart. Branches tied horizontally will produce almost every\r\nflower, as opposed to tying up. Flowers can also be cut in the early years of\r\nthe bush, but be careful not to remove too much of the branch, that is, to cut\r\nit with a stalk of 2-3 eyes at most.<\/p>\n\n
Damaged,\r\nbroken, or non-flowery arms are important to prune to the assembly point. In\r\ngeneral, it is not advisable to touch the long arms but to direct them while\r\ntying.<\/p>\n\n
Picking\r\nroses<\/p>\n\n
For\r\ntea gillers, make sure to pick the right ones: pick only a leaf of 5 fingers.\r\nSuch a leaf came out a new flower within 4-5 weeks.<\/p>\n\n
The\r\nbranches of the "pig" bar cut as close as possible close to where\r\nthey left.<\/p>\n\n
Cut\r\nflowers<\/p>\n\n
It\r\nis best to cut off the flowers after the nibble in order to prevent the\r\ncreation of seeds unless we decide to pick them up before to enjoy the house. 2\r\n– 3 eyes are taken from the flower, preferably above a leaf with 5 leaves (not\r\n3), and not at the point where a branch or other stem splits. It is also\r\nworthwhile to use the kit to contribute to the shaping of the entire discourse\r\nand, of course, to shut off eyes that look outward. Trimming or picking the\r\nflower with a long stalk will cause the next flower to appear longer, but with\r\na longer stalk. If we do not stop the wilted flowers, we will get less\r\nflowering on the bush.<\/p>\n\n
Recommended\r\nstrains from experience:<\/p>\n\n
ROSA\r\nTEA HYBRID SPP.<\/p>\n\n
\u00a0Queen Elizabeth QUEEN ELIZABETH – pink color, large bud, delicate flower\r\nbut the most powerful strain, easy smell.<\/p>\n\n
CHRYSLER\r\nImperial CHRYSLER IMPERUAL – Red Bordeaux color, huge buds, gorgeous scent,\r\nsuitable for picking and making jams. Named after the classic Chrysler.<\/p>\n\n
Oklahoma\r\nOKLAHOMA – a velvety burgundy color, a large flower with the scent of a time. A\r\nvery sturdy plant suitable for picking and making jams.<\/p>\n\n
DOUBLE\r\nDELIGHT – Combined color white with red, especially strong smell.<\/p>\n\n
Harmonic\r\nHARMONIE-colored orange salmon, sturdy and fragrant.<\/p>\n\n
MAXIM\r\nMAXIM – Pink and white, sturdy and abundant rash, light smell.<\/p>\n\n
LAS\r\nVEGAS LAS VEGAS-Color Orange orange blossom, robust and fragrant, abundant\r\nflowering.<\/p>\n\n
Spend\r\nMABELLA-color yellow rash, strong smell, suitable for picking.<\/p>\n\n
GOLDEN\r\nFANTASY GOLDEN FANTASIE – Yellow flower color, large flower, strong smell,\r\nsuitable for picking.<\/p>\n\n
Climbing<\/p>\n\n
Don\r\nJuan-with large flowers, dark burgundy,<\/p>\n\n
Iceberg\r\nICEBERG CLIMBING – the best known climber, starring in many films when shooting\r\nbeautiful houses with climbing, white color, blooming profusely. Rapid growth,\r\na sturdy plant, belongs to the Florivandas. Highly recommended! It can also be\r\nobtained as a stem designer.<\/p>\n\n
In\r\nBANKSIAE-BANKSIA there is a white color (Alba, pictured above) and there is\r\norange (Lutea). Frequent vegetable, vigorous growth and abundant bloom.<\/p>\n\n
Cocktail\r\nCocktail – Blooms profusely in red with a yellow eye, especially sturdy.<\/p>\n\n
On\r\nstem – the assembly of a rose on a barrel of varying length from 40 cm to 60 cm\r\nand up to three feet, which creates the appearance of a flowering pompon.<\/p>\n\n
Just\r\nJoey – From the tea lockers, fire-orange colors, very prominent, large and\r\nfragrant.<\/p>\n\n
Judy\r\nGarland Judy Garland – Judy also excels in a fire blossom as the color of the\r\nfamous actress. Fragrant with an apple smell.<\/p>\n\n
Iceberg\r\nICEBERG CLIMBING- As already mentioned blooms profusely in white as well as\r\ndesigned on a stem (pictured above). Highly recommended!<\/p>\n\n
Zipper\r\nChipper – plenty of pink blossoms with small flowers, blooming most of the\r\nyear, dwarf, heat resistant.<\/p>\n\n
\u00a0\u00a0Garden Director Pink Gartendirektor Otto Linne clusters of small pink\r\nflowers. There is also a discourse.<\/p>\n\n
Ch-2\r\nCh-2-fire-red blossoms, wonderful floribunda on stem. Especially sturdy.<\/p>\n\n
Stretching<\/p>\n\n
Fire\r\nRiver Mainaufeuer – plant covered area, height 0.8 m, blooms red in abundance\r\nin the spring, summer and a little fall, easy to grow.<\/p>\n\n
Seno\r\nCraft Snow Carpet – plant covering low 0.3 m, blooming in white in the spring,\r\nfast, a pair of coveted along with the river of fire.<\/p>\n\n
English\r\nroses<\/p>\n\n
\u00a0Golden Celebration – A yellow lemon blossom climber, blooming in waves\r\nthroughout the year, a full and large flower.<\/p>\n\n
\u00a0William Morris William Morris – A strong smell, blooming pink and pink,\r\nblooms in waves throughout the year.<\/p>\n\n
Roses\r\nin winter:<\/p>\n\n
The\r\nroses are deciduous. Will return to bloom in the spring. If you are in cold\r\nareas in the winter it is recommended to sprinkle a little straw around the\r\ntrunk (on the roots below the soil) and spring to the graph. This is to prevent\r\ncold damage to the root.<\/p>\n\n
Diseases\r\nand pests<\/p>\n\n
The\r\nroses are deciduous and during the winter the leaves fall off. This is not a\r\ndisease and harmless, a completely natural process.\r\n\r\nNote: Roses in a private garden can thrive even\r\nwhen there are certain pest infestations, such as mildew, thrips or aphids. If\r\nthe contamination is not at the level that threatens the plant life, it is also\r\npossible not to treat at all, thereby reducing the environmental impact and\r\nwork with toxic substances. You can simply remove the infected leaf, in winter\r\nmost of the pests disappear. Proper fertilization and adequate irrigation will\r\nhelp the plant survive, and sometimes even prevent infection\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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